Drive up through banana plantations to the Machame Gate (1900m). Bureaucracy runs to African time and crowds mill about aimlessly for a couple of hours before we can set off, led by head guide, Maxon.
The path takes us up through rain forest into the clouds from which we eventually emerge after 4 1/2 hours walking into moorland with heather 8ft high.
We reach our camp for the night at 3000m and face our introduction to the long-drop toilets. Unfortunately, with over 20,000 visitors a year, the long drop isn't as long as it once was and the smell defies description.
Night falls quickly, it is dark by 7pm, and there's nothing for it but to crawl inside the sleeping bags and try to get some sleep.
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