Out of the airport. Old airport on left where Idi Amin and Isreali Special Forces made news in the 70s. Modern drive into Kampala. Stop for fuel, snacks and water. Next to the filling station is a market. Hundreds of black faces. T-shirts. Jeans. Hand-painted signs for Pepsi. We gawp at them. They gawp at us - the only white faces. Smiles. Greetings. Haggle for fresh fruit.
Drive out of Kampala - the road pitted. Hundreds of mopeds for sale at the roadside. Interspersed with lorries in various states of repair and disrepair. Audiences for each mechanic. So many people watching. With time to watch.
Good road south to Masakah. Stop for lunch. Is Mateo on kick-backs? Buffet of local food has insufficient for us. Sit in the shade at a round table for 10. Jenny is given the menu and reads it out. Chicken, fish, omelette and chips. It turns out most is "off". Settle for fish. It comes with a hint of curry in the batter. Not very local - a theme that would develop over the next few days.
Across the equator again. Third time today. Southbound. Reach the end of tarmaced road at 6pm. 90km of dirt track to go. Spectaculer, vertiginous-sided valley as sun sets.
Pass small towns/villages. Single storey, block built houses and shops. Incongruous hairdressers, banks, private schools. And always smiling children waving.
Lorry tipped over dramatically in one town. Surrounded by people milling round and doing nothing practical to right it.
9pm - campfire in road ahead. Another lorry bogged down in ruts. Jseph explores way round to left. Nothing doing. Reverse. It's 5 miles back to the last junction. Locals gathering, laughing at our predicament. Five point turn in a drt track. Not far to go. How far? Is it walking distance? 30kms.
Go back and round longer way. 10.15pm arrive Bwindi. Signs for accommodation - all goilla themed. Our camp on steep hillside. Climb steps past the restaurant. Our tent - double bed with mosquito net, verandah with table and chairs, toilet out the back ("Proudly made in Britain") and a bath with shower in a covered area. Luxury.
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Photograph by David Huxley
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