London 8/9 December 2007

Owing to the possibility of engineering works delaying our journey, we caught the 6am train to London and, in consequence, arrived very early. Even after a second breakfast at Paddington, we arrived at the O2 Centre an hour before Mary and Tim could be expected to emerge. When they finally arrived they looked decidedly worse for wear having been drinking cocktails in the Savoy the night before.

Tutanhkamun exhibition was interesting. http://www.superbreak.com/go/RH089/tutankhamun-exhibition/about.htm People queued appallingly badly but we managed to get round without needing embalming.

After lunch we tried to get into The Ritz but failed on account of our being unsuitably dressed. And the Royal Academy on account of the Friends Room being closed for refurbishment. So we gave up and went to the hotel.

Dinner with Mary and Tim at Smollensky's on The Strand.

A late start on Sunday, so late in fact that Mary and Tim beat us to The British Museum, a feat unparalleled in living memory.

The Terracotta Warriors exhibition was fascinating, housed in the old library. http://www.britishmuseum.org/whats_on/all_current_exhibitions/the_first_emperor.aspx Like the Tutanhkamun exhibition it was dramatically lit in a darkened space and the queuing again left much to be desired.

A whistlestop tour failed to justice to the museum (Rosetta Stone and Elgin Marbles only).

Then off to the Masters tennis at the Albert Hall. http://www.theblackrockmasters.com/ Highlight the mens' doubles final, won by Mansour Bahrami and Henri Leconte. We didn't buy the DVD!

We were booked on the 8.07pm train back but it was cancelled. Fortunately we were early and so got the late-running 7.27pm train and changed onto a bus service at Swindon which actually got us home at more or less the expected time.

Tallin 18 November 2007

Later start on Sunday morning. Tallinn old town is very compact and much prettier than Helsinki. It isn't as cold either though we still took every opportunity to get inside to warm ourselves up.

The City Museum had an excellent display on how the Communist propaganda obscured the truth about the occupation of Estonia. The curator, who had lived through the Second World War, explained how the Red Army conscripted men at the start of the war and how the occupying Nazi forces conscripted men later so that brothers could end up fighting on opposite sides.




Made our way up the Toompea Hill for excellent views over the city. The Toomkirk has a bizarre private chapel like a railway carriage set half way up one wall overlooking the pulpit.


Went into the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral while an orthodox service was taking place. It was so informal. The congregation was either crowding round the priests at the front or else sat chatting around the perimeter of the church.

Lunch was a mediaeval banquet using traditional foods (at last something vaguely local even if it was actually Hanseatic League German tradition).

Ridiculously early for the flight home but switching to the preceding flight would cost £200 which is a bit excessive when the original cost was less than £60. So we didn't bother.

Helsinki 17 November 2007

Got up ridiculously early after our late arrival and got a taxi to the Nordic Jet Line ferry terminal to catch the early morning ferry to Helsinki. http://www-eng.njl.fi/

Jennifer Susan slept most of the hour and 40 minute crossing of the Gulf of Finland, which was flat as the proverbial millpond.

Entered Helsinki's narrow harbour shortly after dawn as the weak winter sun filtered through the clouds. Cold and snow greeted us, but very few people.


Visited the orthodox Uspenski Cathedral first, glad to get into the warm. Then made our way across the practically deserted Senate Square to the Lutheran Tuomiokirkko, which in contrast to the gilt dripping icons of the orthodox church was a simple pale blue interior (though still warm).

Having taken in the Stockmann department store (largest in Europe) we finally found somewhere open for an early lunch - Iguanas, Mexican cooking...

By the time we had looked around the Finnish National Museum and found the City Museum it was already getting dark in the premature nightfall so far north.

We ate dinner (Spanish...) and got the ferry back to Tallin.

Had to try the Ice Bar at the hotel for the vodka shots in glasses made of ice.

Estonia 16 November 2007

Flew to Tallin with Estonian Air http://www.estonian-air.ee/index.php?lang=ENG. The evening flight from Gatwick was delayed while they re-configured the plane but got there ok, shortly before midnight. Taxi took us to The Merchants House http://www.merchantshousehotel.com/, a small boutique hotel in the middle of the old town.

Zanzibar 12/13 September 2007

I have to confess that I was more than a little worried about the arrangements for getting home. There didn't seem to be enough time to get from the hotel in the north of the island to check in for our flight from the airport in the south of the island. Popo, the tour leader, assured us it was ok - there were no tickets but that was fine.

And I have to say, it all worked a treat.

We were dropped off at the airport and taken by a Tanzania Air official straight through without checking in. Our luggage was whisked off through the x-ray machine and we were taken out to a little 8 seater single-engined Cessna. The pilots apparently asked Chris where we wanted to go and fortunately he said Dar es Salaam International (there's more than one airport then?). We hopped over the Indian Ocean between Zanzibar and the mainland and landed 25 minutes later.

Thereafter the journey home was a drag. An hour's wait before we could even check in for our next flight onward to Kilimanjaro. Fortunately, we were able to check the luggage straight through to Heathrow. Short stop-over in Kili before taking off (with great views of the mountain) to Addis Ababa.

Another long wait in Addis, where it turned out it was their new year as Ethiopia is on the Julian rather than the Gregorian calendar. In fact, it was their Millennium. So we saw in the New Year in a restaurant with the staff (who closed it after serving us) and a German missionary, drinking freshly roasted coffee, sharing chocolates I'd bought in the Duty Free next door, and watching the firework displays on their television.

The missionary informed us that she was on our flight and was returning to Rome. This was the first we knew that we weren't flying direct to Heathrow. So we took off at 2am and stopped over for an hour in Rome while the passengers were disembarked and staff came on to clean the plane around us. Finally made it to Heathrow at about 9.20am on Thursday morning. Five flights in 25 hours - exhausting. Definitely called for sharing the drive back to Bristol.

Zanzibar 11 September 2007

Went diving off Mnemba Atoll with East African Diving. http://www.sansibar-tauchen.de/eng/

Saw dolphins. Did two dives to about 20m. In spite of havng told them that we thought we needed 6-8kg of weights, the dive centre gave us 4kg (Jenny) and 5kg (Mark), which was inadequate, meaning we had to fin down rather than descend normally, and also made it nigh on impossible to do a safety stop at 5m on the ascent as we would have had to be head down and finning hard with all the air out of jackets to stay at that depth once our tanks were nearly empty. Not impressed.

That said, everything else about the operation was well run. The wanted to see our PADI cards to check our qualifications and the briefings were thorough.

Zanzibar 10 September 2007

On Monday we drove to the north of the island where we spent a couple of nights at the Smiles Beach Hotel. http://www.zanzibarmagic.com/english2nd/smilesbeachhotel.htm . We visited the turtle conservation project which hatches eggs and looks after the turtles until they are about ten months old, after which they are released into the sea. Some females are kept until they are more mature (about two years).



In the evening we went out in a dhow and snorkelled on a reef offshore then sailed back as the sun was setting.

Zanzibar 9 September 2007

Looked around Stone Town, saw the site of the old slave market and the house of Tippu Tip, one of the last and most successful slave traders. Saw one of the three houses reputed to be where Freddie Mercury grew up - the strength of its claim is no doubt enhanced by its location on the junction of the two main shoppng streets for tourists.

Visited a spice farm where we tried cloves, pepper, lemon grass, nutmeg (and mace which comes from within the same nut), ginger roots, tumeric and other spices - all fresh from the tree/ground/vine.

We saw how they climb the palm trees to collect the coconuts and drank coconut milk and ate the flesh from the shell. Had superb lunch with exquisitely spiced rice.





In the evening we shared a taxi with a local family and went in to Stone Town by way of the backstreets on the edge of the airport. After looking around, we had cocktails on the terrace of the Africa House Hotel and watched the sunset. A dhow came along with perfect timing to be caught in the final rays of the setting sun. We were a bit out off the foodstalls in the Forodhani Gardens and in the end opted to eat at the Africa House. The lack of street lights left the streets disconcertingly dark, so we took a taxi back to the hotel.

Arusha National Park 8 September 2007

On Saturday we went for a game drive through Arusha National Park. Unlike the Maasai Mara, this park is densely wooded, set among extinct volcanos which provide areas of flat open space, often with marshes.

We saw herds of zebra and buffalo, colobus monkeys and baboons, and at one point giraffe strayed onto the road ahead of us.

In the afternoon we flew to Zanzibar where we stayed at the Zanzibar Beach Resort. http://www.tanzania-adventure.com/zanzibar-beach-resort.htm

Kilimanjaro 7 September 2007

The descent from Mweka Camp is through rain forest. The garden furniture passes us (again) on the way down.

Most people seem intent on getting down as quickly as possible. The propsect of hot showers is enticing but there's so much beauty to be seen if you're not in too much of a hurry to stop and take it in, including some, such as the impatiens kilimanjaro that are unique to the mountain.

Our route has taken us round the south side of the mountain.

We celebrate our return to civilisation with a hot shower and a meal in Moshi. It's Jo's 25th birthday and in the evening David has organised a cake for her.

Kilimanjaro 6 September 2007

Set off at midnight. Can see the snakes of light ahead, higher up the slope.

Make it to 5270m by 4.15am but I feel disorientated and losing co-ordination. Altitude sickness. Reluctantly decide the only safe course of action is to descend.

Lose our way, briefly, on the way down, but reach the camp safely. After an hour I feel much better and we begin the descent to Mweka Camp.



Now we are out of synch with the crowds, it feels like we have the mountain to ourselves. It's so much more impressive with the solitude.

We stop for a Coke at the High Camp (3950m) and make the camp by noon after 12 hours walking during which we have climbed 670m and descended 2,170m.

The rest of the group arrives later in the afternoon, having made the summit (even Jo and Sarah who'd been nursed up by Erghet, the assistant guide).

Kilimanjaro 5 September 2007

A long slog of a day - 8 hours walking. Begins with the scramble up the Barranca Wall. There are so many people here that we frequently wait for bottlenecks to clear before we can continue. Across two valleys, filling up water bottles at the last stream before climbing slowly to Barafu Camp (4600m). It is, frankly, disgusting. Tents huddled together around foul smelling long-drop toilets.

David suffers severe altitude sickness and has to descend.

Eat a dinner of potato stew and huddle in sleeping bags, wearing 6 or 7 layers to keep warm. Try to get some sleep before the 11pm call to begin the summit ascent.

Kilimanjaro 4 September 2007

Woke up to find the tent encrusted in frost. Finding a tent which had working zips became the order of the day. Many were broken and this meant that kit you want to stay dry and unfrozen needed to be in the inner tent with you.

We ascended from Shira Camp to approximately 4450m where we stopped for lunch. The group then split in two - those who wanted could go the higher but more direct route to camp via the Lava Tower, others (includng us) chose the longer, lower route across two valleys to reach Barranco Camp (3950m).

From the camp we had good views towards the summit for the first time.

While shaving for dinner (well some of us have standards to maintain), I watched an eagle (7ft wingspan) soaring on the updrafts around the Barranca Wall.

Kilimanjaro 3 September 2007

Early start, packed before breakfast and join the queue of trekkers and porters trudging uphill. We are, however, rewarded with views above the clouds to Mount Meru.

Passed on the way up by garden furniture. This will become a regular, if dis-heartening, experience.

Climb into clouds as we approach Shira Camp (3840m). Worrying guide Maxon cannot locate our tents. Bodes well.

Kilimanjaro 2 September 2007

Drive up through banana plantations to the Machame Gate (1900m).

Bureaucracy runs to African time and crowds mill about aimlessly for a couple of hours before we can set off, led by head guide, Maxon.

The path takes us up through rain forest into the clouds from which we eventually emerge after 4 1/2 hours walking into moorland with heather 8ft high.

We reach our camp for the night at 3000m and face our introduction to the long-drop toilets. Unfortunately, with over 20,000 visitors a year, the long drop isn't as long as it once was and the smell defies description.



Night falls quickly, it is dark by 7pm, and there's nothing for it but to crawl inside the sleeping bags and try to get some sleep.

Kilimanjaro 31 August-1 September 2007

Overnight flight from Heathrow to Addis Ababa on Ethiopian Airlines. http://www.ethiopianairlines.com/ Got our vegetarian meals in spite of having to swap seats with an elderly couple who were confused about row numbers!

Onward flght to Kilimanjaro where we're picked up and taken to the Mountain Inn.
http://www.kilimanjaro-shah.com/mountain_inn.htm

Meet the group: David, the Explore http://www.explore.co.uk/ tour leader, who confesses he's never climbed Kili; Ross, a self-proclaimed Scottish Wanker and referee: Sam, Irish; Colin and Katja, EU civil servants based in Munich; Jo, Sarah and Becks - sisters from Kent; Tez and Chris - a father and son.

Latvia 20 August 2007

After breakfast we strolled along the beach and the foolhardy amongst us paddled in the Baltic just to say they had.

The flight home was delayed over 2 hours and under the compensation regulations we were each given a voucher for 2 Lats (about £2) to spend on food and (non-alcoholic) drink. At least we were spared further Black Balsom.

Latvia 19 August 2007

On Sunday we took a taxi into Riga which dropped us by the House of Blackheads. We took the lift to the top of the tower of St Peter's church for a view of the old city.

We then blagged our way into the Cathedral which was supposed to be closed (on the basis of a donaton to the restoration fund in lieu of the normal entrance price as the ticket office was shut).

In the afternoon we took the scenic elevator to the 26th floor Skyline Bar of the Reval Hotel Latvia for cocktails and another view of the city, whic is surprisingly small - easy walking distance all round.

Robert and Alina's Wedding, Latvia 18 August 2007

Unsure of the arrangements for getting to the church, other than the fact that there was a coach laid on for all guests staying at the Baltic Beach, we got up early. It transpired the coach would be there at 11.45am. It would take us to the church, not the Roman Catholic cathedral as we had expected but Riga's small C of E Church of St Saviour. Apparently the English catholic church had failed to convince the Latvian catholic church of the bona fides of Robert's catholicism. The C of E had stepped in at the last minute as it was wholly indifferent as to the religious beliefs of all those taking part.


11.45am came and went. We duly gathered in a state of confusion, and wondering at the Latvian contingent who seemed to be all laden with flowers. Was this some Latvian wedding tradition that we had failed to uncover in our researches? No, simply that the florist to whom Alina's mother (herself a florist and who had done the flowers for older daughter Olga's wedding) had delegated responsibility for decorating the church had pulled out at the last minute. So the relatives were all doing their bit to make the church look the part. Jennifer Susan's mother and the full contingent of her aunts (L-R Anne, Jen, Valerie, Rosemary) sat in the sun until the coach eventually turned up to take us at 12.45pm.

The service was concise to the point of abruptness but the bride looked lovely. All the more remarkable since her make-up and hair were done by a last minute replacement after the original pulled out.

We then made our way to the quayside where a boat was waiting to take us down the Daugava. Owing to power boat racing on the river we had to board a little downstream from the church and could not travel up-river to take the tributary to Jurmala where the evening reception was to be held in the Baltic Beach hotel, but by now we were blase about such minor details.

On board we were introduced to Latvian Black Balsom, a spirit so vile that even the locals dilute it to disguise the taste and the 45% proof.

The reception was a mix of Latvian and English traditions. Robert carried Alina into the reception and stamped on a plate to determine, from the number and size of pieces into which it broke, the number and gender of their children (29 boys and 4 girls was the somewhat optimistic predction).

Latvia 17 August 2007

Or more correctly for this trip, travels with Jennifer Susan, Jennifer Susan's mother and Jennifer Susan's Aunt (Jen - as she will be referred to throughout to avoid confusion).

Eschewing the £600 via Dublin option, the £450 via Amsterdam option, we took the £180 direct flight from Gatwick with Air Baltic. http://www.airbaltic.com/public/index.html

Anne (cunningly disguised as Kathleen for the trip) and Jen travelled to Bristol by train and we drove up to Gatwick in one car, two suitcases and a rucksack.

The flight was notable for the sushi option in economy class.

We were picked up from the airport and delivered to the Baltic Beach hotel http://www.balticbeach.lv/eng/ shortly before midnight by shuttle bus/taxi included in the hotel bill - just as well as we had no Lats to pay cash.

Bristol Balloon Fiesta 12 August 2007

Alarm wakes us at 4.50am. Dress and drive to David Lloyd, park car and walk to Ashton Court and join the passengers assembled for the morning flight. The weather looks ok but there is rain coming in from the south-west. We need to take off ahead of it.

Mark helps with the inflation of the balloon and we take off at 6.40am about ten minutes ahead of the approaching cloud and rain.


We fly over the Clifton Suspension Bridge across the Avon Gorge and have clear views over Bristol.

We land at 7.20am in a field north of Bristol. We are in the "front" and so end up below those in the "back" when we land. We crawl out.

We help pack the ballon away while we wait for the keyholder from Bristol City Council to be got out of bed and come to unlock the gate to allow us to get out of the field.

Our maximum altitude during the flight was 645m.

Morocco 27/28 July 2007

Final short descent from Aroumd to Imlil where we said goodbye to our cook who had produced varied vegatarian meals in a tent to high standards of hygiene (no tummy upsets - very important when camping and the loo is a hole in the ground), and to our muleteer.
Drove back to Marrakech where we spent the afternoon haggling in the souks. We bought a lampshade for 50 Dirhams, much to the disgust of the shopkeeper who originally asked 1500 Dirhams. We also bought three tagines (a decorated one for Rob and Lee for their new home, a plain one for Mark to use, and an unglazed one for Jenny for its aesthetic qualities) for 260 Dirhams with the deal being concluded with kisses for Mark from the shopkeeper (we must have paid too much) but Jenny was too quick for him and fled the shop before he could catch her too.

Had a final meal out in a hotel where we had our first alcohol for a week - a bottle of Moroccan wine.

Flew home on Saturday.

The trip was organised through Classic Journeys. http://www.classicjourneys.co.uk/

Morocco 26 July 2007

4am alarm call for a 5am start. The ski-jackets finally came into their own in the cold of the early morning at altitude.

We made the long, slow ascent up interminable scree and reached the summit of Mount Toubkal (4167m) about 9.30am.

Somewhat perversely, Jenny found going down tougher than going up (Mark's view being the opposite, probably as a result of him lugging up more weight owing to his podgy gut!)

As on Monday, Jenny used up her full 2 litre camel pack of water, something to bear in mind for our trip to Kilimanjaro - so a useful learning experience. We were both glad to reach the refuge again by lunchtime and have a long cold drink in the shade.

After lunch we broke camp and made the long descend back to Aroumd. And yes, those hot showers again.

Morocco 25 July 2007

A steady climb all day, past the Sidi Chamarouch shrine, brought us to the Toubkal Refuge (3207m).

Here we again found hot showers and Jenny claimed to have seen a flushing toilet. I was sceptical after several days of the "toilet tent" - a portaloo shaped tent that served as mere camouflage for a hole in the ground.

After days of being on our own, the number of people camping at the refuge was a bit of a shock.

We were also disappointed to see the amount of litter being left lying around by all these people.

As we waited for dinner, sitting in our tent, we were visited by a little goat kid. It probably figured it was safer here with the vegetarians than out there with everybody else.

We also noticed that many of the mules had open sores from where their harnesses rubbed. We were pleased to see that ours did not and that they were being adequately fed and cared for by our muleteer.

Guide humour (cont.): "A crocodile lived in a lake and whenever anybody swam in the lake he would invariably eat them up. One day a beautiful girl went to the lake and she was so hot that she decided to go for a swim. Nothing happened. Why not? Answer: Because the crocodile was at the party thrown by the lion."

Morocco 24 July 2007

An easy day. Leaving Tachddirt we climbed to the Tizi n'Tamatert pass then descended into the Ait Mizane valley. After a long lunch break (major progress made on Harry Potter) we continued down to Imlil then climbed the other side to reach our camp at Aroumd.

Paid 10 Dirhams each (about 70p) for a blissful hot shower at a guest house in the village.

Guide humour (cont.): "A lion threw a party for all the animals. Only one animal didn't turn up. Which one? Answer: The horse because it was stuck in the fridge."

Morocco 23 July 2007

Apparently real camping involves putting up your own tent. Mark found it hard to understand why then he had been given a tent designed for a dwarf and was expected to share this with Jenny, when neither of them fitted in it lengthways.



The first days proper trekking started with an ascent of Mount Oukaimden (3263m). Mark was disappointed to find that the ski-lift and mountain top restaurant were closed until next January.

Having allegedly acclimatised ourselves to the altitude, we descended to the track and made the steady climb to the pass of Tizi n'Eddi (2928m). While stopping here for a picnic lunch, we were approached by a berber who appeared out of nowhere and tried to sell us necklaces. We must have been the only hikers through there in days. Where did he come from? How can he make a living selling trinkets to occasional passers-by? Do all berbers have a supply of these to hand just in case they meet a foreigner, however remote they may be from civilisation?


After a long descent into the Inemame Valley, with the camp coming into view then tantalising disappearing out of sight behind another outcrop, we reached Tacheddirt (2300m).

Guide Humour: "How do you get a horse in a fridge in only three moves? Answer: 1 Open the fridge door. 2 Put the horse in the fridge. 3 Close the fridge door."

Morocco 22 July 2007

After a two hour drive into the Atlas Mountains we reached Oukaimden.

We walked around the valley, seeing the neolithic carvings, then climbed a short distance to reach our camp.

Morocco 21 July 2007

The plan was simple. Pack picnic along with the luggage, go to see Jools Holland at Westonbirt then carry on to the airport and snatch a few hours sleep on a bench there before the 4.30am check-in opened.

Best laid plans were thrown completely awry on arrival at Westonbirt to find the concert cancelled. Nothing for it but to turn round, head home and have the picnic in the flat with a cd of Jools Holland. After a slightly longer, and more comfortable sleep (possibly the last for a week), drove to Gatwick in the early hours. On the way, we picked up a copy of the new Harry Potter, to be read in the seclusion of the Atlas Mountains, minimising the risk of anyone giving away the ending.

We did feel a bit out of place on arrival at Marrakech airport, in temperatures in the high 30s and rising, wearing our ski-jackets.

Quick change at the hotel then made our way to Djemaa el Fna. Jenny wondered what all the fuss was about, seeing it in daylight. Had the first of many mint teas near the Katoubia Mosque then, after lunch, ventured into the souks. The impression is of a cool labyrinth of shops and bazaars piled high with all manner of goods: carpets, jewellery, pottery and tourist tat alongside everyday items of food and spices. Some shops seemed to go back and back forever.

Eventually emerged out the far side and visited the Ben Yousseff Mederza, where up to 800 scholars studied the Koran in a warren of small cells around a beautifully decorated courtyard.

We made our way back through the souk and less crowded back streets, where we felt completely safe in a way that would be unthinkable in equivalent parts of major ciies in the UK.


In the evening we returned to Djemaa el Fna and now Jenny understood why it is so famous. The square was full of bustle, people, hawkers, story-tellers, dancers, noise and smoke from the host of stalls cooking food on the spot. We passed booths crammed with people eating anything from sheeps heads to snails. We didn't brave the stalls (food-poisoning on day one of a camping holiday...doesn't bear thinking about) but ate in a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the square.

Dorset 14/15 July 2007

A surprisingly undisturbed night in the room immediately above the bar, facing the square (first floor to right of entrance on attached image and yes it really is that low! http://www.dorset-hotel.co.uk/ ).

Drove to Studland headland (National Trust nature reserve and apparently threatened naturist beach - not visited!) to catch ferry to Sandbanks (one of most expensive places to live in UK - though it looks like a slightly up-market Torbay). Another ferry from Poole Harbour to Brownsea Island.

Walked round island, surprisingly small, then bumped into Mary Gordon (a guide on disabled ski-ing holidays with Mark) at NT cafe. Jenny led Mary astray with wine before even being introduced. Missed ferry back chatting with Mary.


Corfe Castle shrouded in scaffolding, parts look in danger of imminent collapse, but spectacular views over surrounding country. Corfe perfect English village - steam train, cricket match.



Sunday to Lulworth Cove. We opted not to join the (fool)hardy swimmers. Lulworth Castle a restored shell after fire gutted building in 1929. Freestanding spiral stairs in one tower not good for vertigo - similarly views out into void that used to be first and second floors. Separate carpark for Rolls Royces (with Bentley interlopers).

Monkey World http://www.monkeyworld.org/ in the afternoon. Each animal rescued had its own sad story - often used for tourist photographs while cute as a baby then abandoned when too big to control. Enclosures spacious and stimulating environments with runways over the visitors' paths for the animals to move to different parts. Jenny adopted an orangutan, Joly.