Lisbon 2 August 2008

Two metro changes and a steep climb took us to the flea-market of the Feira da Ladra, tucked away behind the Santa Engracia. From there we walked to the Sao Vicente de Fora monastry where the kings of Portugal are buried in great vaults.

From there we took the famous Tram 28 across town, threading its way along twisting streets, barely missing the cars parked on either side. An inch misjudgement when parking would cost you a wing mirror.

After lunch we wandered through the shops of the Chaido and Baixa districts, linked by the wrought iron Elevador Santa Justa, designed by Mesnier, a disciple of Gustav Eiffel. It shows.

Sintra 1 August 2008

Caught the train out through the Benfica district to Sintra.

Walked round the gorge that divides the station and new part of the twon from the old to explore the Palacio Nacional.

After lunch in the town square, walked to the gothic Quinta da Regaleira. Set in gardens themed on the intiation rites of the Knights Templar, this featured a bizarre mix of the labyrinthine library from The Name of The Rose inside and Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade outside.

We then caught the bus up to the Moorish Castle that overlooks the town and walked round its vertigo-inducing, windswept curtain walls.

A further short hop on the bus took us to the Pena Palace, another bizarre confection, home of the last king before his abdication in 1910, with lovely, extensive gardens.

Lisbon 31 July 2008

Celebrated Jenny's birthday by jetting off to Lisbon.

Having dumped our stuff at the hotel, we caught the metro into the heart of the city, the Baixa. From here we walked up to the cathedral and Roman theatre. Fortified by a glass of wine and gazpacho soup we continued up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge.

Dubrovnik 1 July 2008

Visited the very moving memorial to the citizens of Dubrovnik who were killed in the shelling of the city in the civil war. It's hard to think that this was less than 20 years ago.

Took the ferry to Lokrum Island where we climbed the hill to the tower from where we had views across to the city. Lazy afternoon sunbathing and swimming in the Adriatic.

Romantic dinner at the Dubrovnik Palace, watching the sun set over the islands.

Early start the next morning for the return drive to Split airport and flight home.

Dubrovnik 30 June 2008

Went diving in the morning but found the dive school very lax. There was a poor briefing and we weren't given depth gauges or watches so we were utterly reliant on the dive master to ensure that we didn't suffer any decompression problems. This was then compounded by him grabbing an octopus for us to handle - we declined - and killing a sea urchin to attract and feed fishes. We didn't bother going back for the afternoon dive.

After a siesta to avoid the worst of the heat, we returned to the old town and had a superb seafood platter for dinner overlooking the harbour, topping the one we'd had in Split.

Dubrovnik 29 June 2008

We ignored the suggested route from Google Maps and took the coast road from Split to Dubrovnik via Italy (cutting 650 km and 12 hours off the journey time - but running the risk of the two border crossings, where we were waved through, and 6 km stretch of Bosnia-Herzegovinian coastline).


We found Villa Antea - allegedly 4 star with pool, but actually without restaurant or pool (you can use the hotel next door, it's ok, they don't mind - and they didn't) and they had no facility to take payments by credit card. The air-con was fierce but great after the heat of the day.




We drove into the old town and found the shady streets offered welcome respite from the sun.

So we opted to walk round the city walls in the full glare of the afternoon sun, climbing the towers to maximise the debilitating effect. Two ice creams were called for to recover.

Split 28 June 2008

Flew into Split by EasyJet and picked up the hire car, courtesy of Auto Europe http://www.auto-europe.co.uk/

Drove into the city and found the Dalmina Hotel easily - it may be on the "wrong side of the tracks" but it is the right side of the city for the airport. http://www.hoteldalmina.hr/en/home

Walked into the city centre and had lunch by the cathedral, within the precincts of Diocletian's Palace. Climbed the vertigo inducing campanile - no internal supports, just the shell of the tower to hold it up... Explored the underground halls of the palace - at least it was cool down there. Had a seafood platter for dinner that we thought would be difficult to beat, that was, until we got to Dubrovnik.