Morocco 21 July 2007

The plan was simple. Pack picnic along with the luggage, go to see Jools Holland at Westonbirt then carry on to the airport and snatch a few hours sleep on a bench there before the 4.30am check-in opened.

Best laid plans were thrown completely awry on arrival at Westonbirt to find the concert cancelled. Nothing for it but to turn round, head home and have the picnic in the flat with a cd of Jools Holland. After a slightly longer, and more comfortable sleep (possibly the last for a week), drove to Gatwick in the early hours. On the way, we picked up a copy of the new Harry Potter, to be read in the seclusion of the Atlas Mountains, minimising the risk of anyone giving away the ending.

We did feel a bit out of place on arrival at Marrakech airport, in temperatures in the high 30s and rising, wearing our ski-jackets.

Quick change at the hotel then made our way to Djemaa el Fna. Jenny wondered what all the fuss was about, seeing it in daylight. Had the first of many mint teas near the Katoubia Mosque then, after lunch, ventured into the souks. The impression is of a cool labyrinth of shops and bazaars piled high with all manner of goods: carpets, jewellery, pottery and tourist tat alongside everyday items of food and spices. Some shops seemed to go back and back forever.

Eventually emerged out the far side and visited the Ben Yousseff Mederza, where up to 800 scholars studied the Koran in a warren of small cells around a beautifully decorated courtyard.

We made our way back through the souk and less crowded back streets, where we felt completely safe in a way that would be unthinkable in equivalent parts of major ciies in the UK.


In the evening we returned to Djemaa el Fna and now Jenny understood why it is so famous. The square was full of bustle, people, hawkers, story-tellers, dancers, noise and smoke from the host of stalls cooking food on the spot. We passed booths crammed with people eating anything from sheeps heads to snails. We didn't brave the stalls (food-poisoning on day one of a camping holiday...doesn't bear thinking about) but ate in a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the square.

Dorset 14/15 July 2007

A surprisingly undisturbed night in the room immediately above the bar, facing the square (first floor to right of entrance on attached image and yes it really is that low! http://www.dorset-hotel.co.uk/ ).

Drove to Studland headland (National Trust nature reserve and apparently threatened naturist beach - not visited!) to catch ferry to Sandbanks (one of most expensive places to live in UK - though it looks like a slightly up-market Torbay). Another ferry from Poole Harbour to Brownsea Island.

Walked round island, surprisingly small, then bumped into Mary Gordon (a guide on disabled ski-ing holidays with Mark) at NT cafe. Jenny led Mary astray with wine before even being introduced. Missed ferry back chatting with Mary.


Corfe Castle shrouded in scaffolding, parts look in danger of imminent collapse, but spectacular views over surrounding country. Corfe perfect English village - steam train, cricket match.



Sunday to Lulworth Cove. We opted not to join the (fool)hardy swimmers. Lulworth Castle a restored shell after fire gutted building in 1929. Freestanding spiral stairs in one tower not good for vertigo - similarly views out into void that used to be first and second floors. Separate carpark for Rolls Royces (with Bentley interlopers).

Monkey World http://www.monkeyworld.org/ in the afternoon. Each animal rescued had its own sad story - often used for tourist photographs while cute as a baby then abandoned when too big to control. Enclosures spacious and stimulating environments with runways over the visitors' paths for the animals to move to different parts. Jenny adopted an orangutan, Joly.

Free Rein 2 July 2007

We had 22 miles to cover on Monday and at least the weather improved with the rain only intermittent.

A couple of times the route description differed from the route on the map but we were able to find our way.

Eschewing the option of stopping at Painscastle, after 15 miles, and getting a lift back to the stables, we completed the whole journey, much to the Free Rein staff's surprise. But we both agreed that stopping early would have felt somehow incomplete.

We made good time and arrived back about 5.30pm, after 7 hours in the saddle.

Free Rein 1 July 2007

Sunday dawned brighter. After tacking up Shadow and Dan we paused for a photo opportunity in front of the Inn before heading north. Jenny pointedly ignored Mark's jodhpurs; Mark ignored Jenny's safari hat (fine for Namibia but somewhat out of place on a wet weekend in Wales).

Being the second day, Mark was gate monitor. All good practice, no doubt, but there are so few gates in Wadi Rum.

We stopped for a pack lunch during a sunny interval.

We took the Offa's Dyke Path and climbed Hergest Ridge, leading the horses down fom its summit.

There were very few people, probably put off by the weather.

Reached Old Radnor, some 15 miles distance, after 5 1/2 hours. Stayed in the lovely Harp Inn (again run by an outsider couple not a local).

Free Rein 30 June 2007

With the benefit of hindsight, picking the middle weekend of Wimbledon for a ride through the Brecon Beacons was asking for trouble. The severe weather warning only confirmed the folly.

Jenny sensibly opted for full water-proofs though even she was a bit damp by the end of the day. Fortunately, the drying room at the Roast Ox Inn in Painscastle, our destination for the first day, proved more than adequate for the task.

We were thoroughly briefed before setting out from the stables - Jenny with the directions and Mark with the maps. All waterproof and kept in handy pouches. It all seemed well organised.

http://www.free-rein.co.uk/homepage.htm

We covered 13 miles in a little under 4 hours, mostly at a walk though with occasional trots and canters. Much to Jenny's disappointment, we both stayed on and made it to the Inn by late afternoon. The feed and grooming kit had arrived ahead of us (as had our luggage so we had dry clothes to change into) and we turned the horses out into a small field in the centre of the village.

Milan 3 June 2007

Metro across town to San Amrogio church with relics of saints in crypt under the alter - at least they were whole skeletons in bishops robes and had the requisite number of limbs, digits etc.

Then to the science museum where they have constructed models, some lifesize, from designs of Leonardo Da Vinci, including a sinister frogman who looked like a creature from Dr Who.

After a coffee in the somewhat deserted Navigli canalside area we got a tram back into the centre.

After looking round the Palazzo Bagetti-Valsecchi, where two 19th Century brothers transformed their home into a renaissance palace, we discovered the reason for the road closures. The Giro d'Italia 2007 was scheduled to finish in Milan that afternoon.

We had time for a look around the Villa Real museum of art, another ice cream and shopping at Zara before we took up our position to watch the climax of the Giro.

Owing to a slight miscalculation, we found ourselves trapped on the inside of the circuit and, unsure of the number of laps the riders were doing, we risked the wrath of the carabinieri and clambered over the barriers to escape across the track.

Early night as we had to catch the bus back to Malpensa in time for the 5.15am check in for our flight home.

Breakfast in the airport - queue first to pay (even though the crowd ahead of you, clustered around the counter, blocks your view of what you might want to have), then join the melee at the counter to collect the food you've paid for but not yet seen, then join the queue at the separate bar to hand over your receipt and collect your drinks. Fantastic system - beyond me and my limited Italian at that hour.

Milan 2 June 2007

Flew from Bristol to Milan Malpensa by Easyjet (£33 each return including taxes...ridiculous!) Bus into the city, dropping us off at Centrale Railway Station - built for Mussolini in grand Roman style. "At least the trains ran on time then."

After dropping off bags at hotel http://bestwestern.worldexecutive.com/directory/italy/milan/hotels/98091.html , we walked into the city centre, a bit puzzled that some of the streets were closed to traffic.

The Duomo was very impressive - we timed our arrival just ahead of a cardinal - but unlike us, he was applauded into the cathedral by a bevy of bishops. Climbed the stairs to the roof (shunning the €6 lift alternative), which did wonders for my vertigo and offered views of the city but not, alas, the mountains to the north.


Went through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and looked around the museum of La Scala. Managed to get told off for taking photos from one of the boxes inside the auditorium when it was somebody else with a flash in the orchestra pit. (Clearly the security had been tipped off by Irish customs - see earlier entry http://travelswithjennifersusan.blogspot.com/2007/03/dublin-18-february-2007.html)

Went to Castello Sforzesco as the heavens opened. Took refuge in an ice cream shop. Fruits of the Forest/Lemon/Strawberry for Jenny; Chocolate/Strawberry/Vanilla for me.

Metro back to foil the umbrella salesmen.

Evening concert in Piazza del Duomo by the orchestra of La Scala and meal in the Galleria Vttorio Emanuele II.