Friday, 24 August 2007

Latvia 20 August 2007


After breakfast we strolled along the beach and the foolhardy amongst us paddled in the Baltic just to say they had.
The flight home was delayed over 2 hours and under the compensation regulations we were each given a voucher for 2 Lats (about £2) to spend on food and (non-alcoholic) drink. At least we were spared further Black Balsom.

Latvia 19 August 2007

On Sunday we took a taxi into Riga which dropped us by the House of Blackheads. We took the lift to the top of the tower of St Peter's church for a view of the old city.

We then blagged our way into the Cathedral which was supposed to be closed (on the basis of a donaton to the restoration fund in lieu of the normal entrance price as the ticket office was shut).

In the afternoon we took the scenic elevator to the 26th floor Skyline Bar of the Reval Hotel Latvia for cocktails and another view of the city, whic is surprisingly small - easy walking distance all round.

Robert and Alina's Wedding, Latvia 18 August 2007

Unsure of the arrangements for getting to the church, other than the fact that there was a coach laid on for all guests staying at the Baltic Beach, we got up early. It transpired the coach would be there at 11.45am. It would take us to the church, not the Roman Catholic cathedral as we had expected but Riga's small C of E Church of St Saviour. Apparently the English catholic church had failed to convince the Latvian catholic church of the bona fides of Robert's catholicism. The C of E had stepped in at the last minute as it was wholly indifferent as to the religious beliefs of all those taking part.


11.45am came and went. We duly gathered in a state of confusion, and wondering at the Latvian contingent who seemed to be all laden with flowers. Was this some Latvian wedding tradition that we had failed to uncover in our researches? No, simply that the florist to whom Alina's mother (herself a florist and who had done the flowers for older daughter Olga's wedding) had delegated responsibility for decorating the church had pulled out at the last minute. So the relatives were all doing their bit to make the church look the part. Jennifer Susan's mother and the full contingent of her aunts (L-R Anne, Jen, Valerie, Rosemary) sat in the sun until the coach eventually turned up to take us at 12.45pm.

The service was concise to the point of abruptness but the bride looked lovely. All the more remarkable since her make-up and hair were done by a last minute replacement after the original pulled out.



We then made our way to the quayside where a boat was waiting to take us down the Daugava. Owing to power boat racing on the river we had to board a little downstream from the church and could not travel up-river to take the tributary to Jurmala where the evening reception was to be held in the Baltic Beach hotel, but by now we were blase about such minor details.

On board we were introduced to Latvian Black Balsom, a spirit so vile that even the locals dilute it to disguise the taste and the 45% proof.





The reception was a mix of Latvian and English traditions. Robert carried Alina into the reception and stamped on a plate to determine, from the number and size of pieces into which it broke, the number and gender of their children (29 boys and 4 girls was the somewhat optimistic predction).




Latvia 17 August 2007

Or more correctly for this trip, travels with Jennifer Susan, Jennifer Susan's mother and Jennifer Susan's Aunt (Jen - as she will be referred to throughout to avoid confusion).

Eschewing the £600 via Dublin option, the £450 via Amsterdam option, we took the £180 direct flight from Gatwick with Air Baltic. http://www.airbaltic.com/public/index.html

Anne (cunningly disguised as Kathleen for the trip) and Jen travelled to Bristol by train and we drove up to Gatwick in one car, two suitcases and a rucksack.

The flight was notable for the sushi option in economy class.

We were picked up from the airport and delivered to the Baltic Beach hotel http://www.balticbeach.lv/eng/ shortly before midnight by shuttle bus/taxi included in the hotel bill - just as well as we had no Lats to pay cash.

Tuesday, 14 August 2007

Bristol Balloon Fiesta 12 August 2007

Alarm wakes us at 4.50am. Dress and drive to David Lloyd, park car and walk to Ashton Court and join the passengers assembled for the morning flight. The weather looks ok but there is rain coming in from the south-west. We need to take off ahead of it.

Mark helps with the inflation of the balloon and we take off at 6.40am about ten minutes ahead of the approaching cloud and rain.


We fly over the Clifton Suspension Bridge across the Avon Gorge and have clear views over Bristol.
We land at 7.20am in a field north of Bristol. We are in the "front" and so end up below those in the "back" when we land. We crawl out.


We help pack the ballon away while we wait for the keyholder from Bristol City Council to be got out of bed and come to unlock the gate to allow us to get out of the field.
Our maximum altitude during the flight was 645m.




Thursday, 2 August 2007

Morocco 27/28 July 2007

Final short descent from Aroumd to Imlil where we said goodbye to our cook who had produced varied vegatarian meals in a tent to high standards of hygiene (no tummy upsets - very important when camping and the loo is a hole in the ground), and to our muleteer.
Drove back to Marrakech where we spent the afternoon haggling in the souks. We bought a lampshade for 50 Dirhams, much to the disgust of the shopkeeper who originally asked 1500 Dirhams. We also bought three tagines (a decorated one for Rob and Lee for their new home, a plain one for Mark to use, and an unglazed one for Jenny for its aesthetic qualities) for 260 Dirhams with the deal being concluded with kisses for Mark from the shopkeeper (we must have paid too much) but Jenny was too quick for him and fled the shop before he could catch her too.

Had a final meal out in a hotel where we had our first alcohol for a week - a bottle of Moroccan wine.
Flew home on Saturday.
The trip was organised through Classic Journeys. http://www.classicjourneys.co.uk/

Morocco 26 July 2007


4am alarm call for a 5am start. The ski-jackets finally came into their own in the cold of the early morning at altitude.
We made the long, slow ascent up interminable scree and reached the summit of Mount Toubkal (4167m) about 9.30am.

Somewhat perversely, Jenny found going down tougher than going up (Mark's view being the opposite, probably as a result of him lugging up more weight owing to his podgy gut!)
As on Monday, Jenny used up her full 2 litre camel pack of water, something to bear in mind for our trip to Kilimanjaro - so a useful learning experience. We were both glad to reach the refuge again by lunchtime and have a long cold drink in the shade.
After lunch we broke camp and made the long descend back to Aroumd. And yes, those hot showers again.


Morocco 25 July 2007

A steady climb all day, past the Sidi Chamarouch shrine, brought us to the Toubkal Refuge (3207m).
Here we again found hot showers and Jenny claimed to have seen a flushing toilet. I was sceptical after several days of the "toilet tent" - a portaloo shaped tent that served as mere camouflage for a hole in the ground.
After days of being on our own, the number of people camping at the refuge was a bit of a shock.

We were also disappointed to see the amount of litter being left lying around by all these people.
As we waited for dinner, sitting in our tent, we were visited by a little goat kid. It probably figured it was safer here with the vegetarians than out there with everybody else.
We also noticed that many of the mules had open sores from where their harnesses rubbed. We were pleased to see that ours did not and that they were being adequately fed and cared for by our muleteer.
Guide humour (cont.): "A crocodile lived in a lake and whenever anybody swam in the lake he would invariably eat them up. One day a beautiful girl went to the lake and she was so hot that she decided to go for a swim. Nothing happened. Why not? Answer: Because the crocodile was at the party thrown by the lion."

Morocco 24 July 2007

An easy day. Leaving Tachddirt we climbed to the Tizi n'Tamatert pass then descended into the Ait Mizane valley. After a long lunch break (major progress made on Harry Potter) we continued down to Imlil then climbed the other side to reach our camp at Aroumd.

Paid 10 Dirhams each (about 70p) for a blissful hot shower at a guest house in the village.

Guide humour (cont.): "A lion threw a party for all the animals. Only one animal didn't turn up. Which one? Answer: The horse because it was stuck in the fridge."

Morocco 23 July 2007

Apparently real camping involves putting up your own tent. Mark found it hard to understand why then he had been given a tent designed for a dwarf and was expected to share this with Jenny, when neither of them fitted in it lengthways.



The first days proper trekking started with an ascent of Mount Oukaimden (3263m). Mark was disappointed to find that the ski-lift and mountain top restaurant were closed until next January.

Having allegedly acclimatised ourselves to the altitude, we descended to the track and made the steady climb to the pass of Tizi n'Eddi (2928m). While stopping here for a picnic lunch, we were approached by a berber who appeared out of nowhere and tried to sell us necklaces. We must have been the only hikers through there in days. Where did he come from? How can he make a living selling trinkets to occasional passers-by? Do all berbers have a supply of these to hand just in case they meet a foreigner, however remote they may be from civilisation?


After a long descent into the Inemame Valley, with the camp coming into view then tantalising disappearing out of sight behind another outcrop, we reached Tacheddirt (2300m).

Guide Humour: "How do you get a horse in a fridge in only three moves? Answer: 1 Open the fridge door. 2 Put the horse in the fridge. 3 Close the fridge door."

Morocco 22 July 2007

After a two hour drive into the Atlas Mountains we reached Oukaimden.

We walked around the valley, seeing the neolithic carvings, then climbed a short distance to reach our camp.

Morocco 21 July 2007

The plan was simple. Pack picnic along with the luggage, go to see Jools Holland at Westonbirt then carry on to the airport and snatch a few hours sleep on a bench there before the 4.30am check-in opened.

Best laid plans were thrown completely awry on arrival at Westonbirt to find the concert cancelled. Nothing for it but to turn round, head home and have the picnic in the flat with a cd of Jools Holland. After a slightly longer, and more comfortable sleep (possibly the last for a week), drove to Gatwick in the early hours. On the way, we picked up a copy of the new Harry Potter, to be read in the seclusion of the Atlas Mountains, minimising the risk of anyone giving away the ending.

We did feel a bit out of place on arrival at Marrakech airport, in temperatures in the high 30s and rising, wearing our ski-jackets.

Quick change at the hotel then made our way to Djemaa el Fna. Jenny wondered what all the fuss was about, seeing it in daylight. Had the first of many mint teas near the Katoubia Mosque then, after lunch, ventured into the souks. The impression is of a cool labyrinth of shops and bazaars piled high with all manner of goods: carpets, jewellery, pottery and tourist tat alongside everyday items of food and spices. Some shops seemed to go back and back forever.

Eventually emerged out the far side and visited the Ben Yousseff Mederza, where up to 800 scholars studied the Koran in a warren of small cells around a beautifully decorated courtyard.

We made our way back through the souk and less crowded back streets, where we felt completely safe in a way that would be unthinkable in equivalent parts of major ciies in the UK.


In the evening we returned to Djemaa el Fna and now Jenny understood why it is so famous. The square was full of bustle, people, hawkers, story-tellers, dancers, noise and smoke from the host of stalls cooking food on the spot. We passed booths crammed with people eating anything from sheeps heads to snails. We didn't brave the stalls (food-poisoning on day one of a camping holiday...doesn't bear thinking about) but ate in a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the square.